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Brazil |
Other opinions
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Until a few years ago, beach, in Portugal, was Algarve. Now is Brazil. Everybody who can afford it goes to the northeast, but I didn't, in my first visit
I dreamed with Foz do Iguaçu, and Rio de Janeiro, was mandatory in its way. So, that was the destination of my first trip to Brazil. With a friend in Belo Horizonte, visiting him was the pretext to some days in Minas Gerais. Excellent idea, because all the city of Ouro Preto is marvelous, and Mariana, Congonhas or Tiradentes share the same look and ambiance, that make Portuguese fierce of their history. The same applies to Parati, the best option to explore the bay of Angra dos Reis, and, if Buzios is just beach beside beach (maybe a must in summer, only interesting in August), Petrópolis revealed a different look, half Portugal half Switzerland but all Brazil. One week in Recife's area was the opportunity to visit the northeast. A short visit, but enough to spend some good days in Recife, and to see Maragogi, Olinda, Igarassu, Itamaracá, Porto de Galinhas, and the area around Cabo de Santo Agostinho. My experiences are already described in the relative pages. Be my guest.
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"There are not two without three," says a Portuguese proverb, and I'm returning from my third visit to Brazil. This time I made a quick trip to São Paulo, and even faster through Campinas, before spending a weekend in Ribeirão Preto for a wedding. On the way back, three days in Salvador, allowed me to add to a city tour, a swim in Morro de São Paulo, Guarajuba and Praia do Forte. Not bad...
To organize my notes, I follow the alphabetical order of the visited states: Alagoas, Bahia, Minas Gerais, Paraná, Pernambuco, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo
To organize my notes, I follow the alphabetical order of the visited states: Alagoas, Bahia, Minas Gerais, Paraná, Pernambuco, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo
Alagoas
Maragogi
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It's quite an experience, crossing a large extension of water, entering the sea, to anchor in a shallow beach crowded of emerging and sinking reefs.
Diving, snorkeling or only bathing is a pleasure shared by hundreds of people, concentrated in a area that, being so large, sometimes seems here and there overcrowded. The protection of the reef and fish is took seriously, but that doesn't limit the fun. If you go the the northeast, Maragogi it's a great visit to consider. |
Bahia
Salvador
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Very interesting the three days that we spent in Bahia. Despite some degradation that is slowly being recovered, the city of Salvador is attractive, and its historical center is absolutely unforgettable.
Then ... the beaches, always with warm water, and a huge diversity, from the open and beaten sea to the beaches protected by the reefs, with their many natural pools. Time passed quickly ... |
Minas Gerais
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Congonhas was not in our initial plan, but, with a small detour, we decided to go there. Excellent idea. It is easy and quick to visit, and the contact to the art of Aleijadinho was particularly impressive, because the place had become familiar to all of us, by its use in Brazilian novels. |
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Aleijadinho's masterpieces
The church of Bom Jesus de Matosinhos is surrounded by a large collection of some of the most famous statues of Brazil. Several times showed in Brazilian novels that fill Portuguese TV, it was for us more like a meeting then a discovery. But we enjoyed it (specially Fernanda). The Chapels of Passion 
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Let me translate some words of prof. Moacyr Vasconcellos:
“In only 200 meters in straight line, in the modest town of Congonhas do Campo, in the mountains of Minas Gerais, thousands of kilometres from the big centres of western civilizations, there are concentrated 78 sculptures which compose the most fabulous ensemble of baroque art in the world: they are, the 66 images in cedar of Passos da Paixao, and the 12 prophets in soap-stone.
Amidst them, we count a minimum of 40 figures considered masterpieces.”
These works were conceived, directed and maybe executed by “Aleijadinho”, which means… it’s hard to translate: something around dear crippled, or poor crippled, or small crippled.
Born and dead Portuguese, in Brazil (1730?-1814), Antonio Francisco Lisboa, is, maybe, the greatest artistic name in Brazil.
Professionally a carpenter, he became a genius of sculpture, with works all over the state, that the Portuguese discovered through the novels . I will be obliged to talk about him, in some other tips.
For more details see: http://www.bookrags.com/biography-o-aleijadinho/
“In only 200 meters in straight line, in the modest town of Congonhas do Campo, in the mountains of Minas Gerais, thousands of kilometres from the big centres of western civilizations, there are concentrated 78 sculptures which compose the most fabulous ensemble of baroque art in the world: they are, the 66 images in cedar of Passos da Paixao, and the 12 prophets in soap-stone.
Amidst them, we count a minimum of 40 figures considered masterpieces.”
These works were conceived, directed and maybe executed by “Aleijadinho”, which means… it’s hard to translate: something around dear crippled, or poor crippled, or small crippled.
Born and dead Portuguese, in Brazil (1730?-1814), Antonio Francisco Lisboa, is, maybe, the greatest artistic name in Brazil.
Professionally a carpenter, he became a genius of sculpture, with works all over the state, that the Portuguese discovered through the novels . I will be obliged to talk about him, in some other tips.
For more details see: http://www.bookrags.com/biography-o-aleijadinho/
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About 16 KM from Ouro Preto, a small but also beautiful town, Mariana, replicates the style and harmony of Ouro Preto, at a smaller scale and in a less beautiful landscape.
Now it seems that they put back to work the old train "Maria Fumaça" that offers a pleasant trip of about one hour between the two cities. It was closed when we visited it, and even if it wasn't our shortage of time would recommend the car, but Mariana was there, and even in a short visit, the wonders of Portuguese Baroque could be seen. |
Ouro Preto
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World heritage for UNESCO, this precious gem of the good old Portuguese times, somewhat out of the regular tourist destinations, clearly justifies a couple of days to visit it..
Ouro Preto, with its hundreds of churches spread along the steep and winding cobbled streets, is no longer a great gold producer, but the hundreds of tons carried to Portugal were te basis of many monuments in Portugal, and we still can feel it walking around. |
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Close to Congonhas and easy to join in the same visit, Tiradentes seems son of Congonhas and Parati. The problem is that you need to visit all of them to understand what I mean... At least it shows the Portuguese colonial architecture, very similar with Parati, together wiht the baroque style that gets its top in Congonhas (Ouro Preto is an apart world). |
Paraná
Foz de Iguaçu
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A couple of days in Foz do Iguaçu, were enough to watch the power of the falls, and the richness of the dense jungle that surrounds it.
Despite demanding an express flight, the unforgettable scenery clearly justifies its costs. Dramatic images of an almost dry river seen in a magazine, advises to choose well the dates to the visit. |
Pernambuco
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The long coast of Brazil has everything, from very touristy places to wild beaches. Putting the purity of nature together with some comfort built by men is a balance hard to reach. Cabo de Santo Agostinho is one of those places, with several beautiful beaches mainly used by locals but already with some facilities, and always with Nature present and dominating. |
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The Merry widow Latin widows wear black. Well... most of the time. In Cabo de Santo Agostinho, a widow was so sad with her husband's death, that she decided to use his favorite color. And not only in her clothes: she even repainted their house in the same color. Looking at the picture you have to agree: such a sad story! |
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The Beautiful Calhetas One of the most charming beaches that we saw in Pernambuco is surely Calhetas. A very small beach, with difficult access, is dominated by a bar (Bar do Artur) that you have to cross to reach the beach. It's a place for friendly meetings and parties, as the walls in the bar clearly testify. |
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Gaibu Opposite to Suape, Gaibu, in the northern side of the Cape of Santo Agostinho, is a large beach with only a hotel and lots of private houses. It seems another beach for locals, until massive tourism dictates another law! |
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Suape One more beach: We just passed there... not ugly... not spectacular... a steep access... Well, one more good place (and probably affordable) to rest in natural environment. |
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Being out of my plan, I visited Igarassu because, in my way to Itamaracá, the taxi driver suggested the detour. The surprise was very positive: History is Portuguese there, and they are doing a good work in recuperation. It was a good idea, not exactly because of the announced highlight (the oldest church in Brazil) but because of saint Antonio church and its museum. It's a quick visit and, you are passing nearby, I think you must also make the detour. |
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Santo Antonio Church A little distant from the main attraction of Igarassu, this is a church that you must not skip. It's well recuperated and displays a beautiful baroque decoration, with a small museum.. |
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The Cloister of Santo Antonio Convent A good restoration job has been done in this baroque church, which allows a surprisingly interesting visit. The church, built in 1588 and plundered by the Dutch, a few years later, was abandoned until being reconstructed in 1693. The small cloister, with big plants, is a cool centre of all the visitable points. |
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Portuguese Tiles One excellent collection of Portuguese tiles fills the walls of Santo António church and corridors. Some panels are already incomplete, but there are many in perfect condition after the recuperation work they suffered. |
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Pinacotheca Included in Santo Antonio church there's a small museum with 24 paintings, from the 16th to the 18th century. Pictures of the display are forbidden, but not to the exterior... Easy to visit and deserving it. 
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The Choir Of S. Antonio Church
If you visit the church on your own, you will probably miss this part of it, which happens to be the best. It's closed, and the girl(boy) that offers to lead you in, has the key. It's cheap to pay the 2 Real they ask and accept the offer. PS - The gentle young girl that lead us inside was so embarrassed and ashamed when I had to explain her WHO was St Anthony that the 2 Real became 5 to confirm that we did appreciate her effort and kindness. |
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Sacristy My last tip about Santo Antonio church (promise!) is for the sacristy. The harmony among tiles, roof and furniture is absolute, but that's the place where more tiles are missing. |
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S Cosme e Damião They say that this is the oldest church in Brazil! Ok. But they needed not to empty it, leaving only the main altar and nude walls. Anyway, it keeps being Igarassu main attraction, and you may always proceed a little down to St Antonio church, where the display is very interesting |
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Waiting its turn Close to S Cosme and Damião (one day I'll check why do these two saints always share the same church and prayers) there's a larger convent, seeming abandoned. I know the budget is always short, but the church of Sagrado Coração de Jesus looks like deserving the same treatment gave to Santo Antonio. |
Itamaracá
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Less known in the touristy circuits, Itamaracá is a very good visit with many interesting details, mixing history, wildlife preservation, and, as expected, excellent beaches.
Not to be missed! |
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Well done Portugal (And well done Brazil!)
Close to Recife, it's "impossible" to visit one without going to the other, but they are so different, that the visits complement well each other. Olinda is history and tradition, with evident Portuguese signs in each church, street or corner. Impossible to miss. History is well preserved, and shows the best that Portugal made in Brazil. Together with Ouro Preto and Parati, Olinda honors the men that built and preserved them. |
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Old Town Where am I? In Óbidos? Monsaraz? Castelo de Vide? No! With this temperature in March it cannot be Portugal. But it looks like! Sorry folks, you will have to content with a good lunch in Estrela do Mar, because this sensation is reserved for the Portuguese, but the visual pleasure is shareable. So, walk slow, breath deeply, and... enjoy! There is always a solution to understand the described feeling - come to Portugal and try to understand the links. |
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Cathedral Created in the 16th century, this church was destroyed during the war between Portuguese and Dutch. Rebuilt in the 17th and ruined again, the final version is about 100 years old. It's far from being among the best in Olinda, but it surely is located in the best sightseeing place of town. The yard in its back is mandatory. |
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St Francisco church
The most beautiful church I saw in Olinda, St Francis suffered the common mistreatment of the war, but kept the appearance of its reconstruction in the 17th century. Nested in green, its sober cloisters contrast with its very rich baroque decoration. The golden altar and the frescoes in the roof stand out amidst many figurative tiles. Though some panels already miss a few tiles, the whole is rich and very beautiful. |
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S Bento Church - Golden Altar
I left Portugal with a severe warning from a friend: I should not miss this church. Thanks for the warning! I didn't and agree that the richness and beauty of the altar are unbeatable. Unfortunately the photo of the altar (flash forbidden) was so lousy I don't dare to publish it, but it's better that way: you will have to go there and look for yourself |
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Carmo Church We didn't enter this church, that shows from below the serious need of conservation. It's a beautiful building atop a small hill, dating from the 17th century |
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Slave Market
I read that the so called slave market never was used for that purpose. I don't know the truth, but if it did, then the look should be different from what it is. There are no dramatic references in the place, with shops covering it all, respecting the ambiance but giving color and life to a place that, if the story is true, should be treated in a more austere way, inviting us to reflect about the world of slavery. |
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Recife I was in Recife and visited Olinda from there, but nothing stops you to do it the opposite way. No matter where you are, one thing is clear: they are very different, and both places must be seen, and it will take only some minutes to move between them. |
Porto das Galinhas
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Brazil is big and diverse, so, there is plenty of choices for everything and everyone.
For the beach lovers, the northeast offer summer all year round. Porto das Galinhas became one of the preferred destinations for the Portuguese and... with good reasons. The reefs are great. |
Recife
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I spent a week in Recife, more exactly in Boa Viagem beach. It was a good idea, because, with the help of a friendly taxi driver, i could visit Porto de Galinhas, Maragogi, Olinda, Itamaracá, Igarassu, and several beaches in Cabo de Santo Agostinho area. However, Recife after each return and in the free days, had always something different to offer,"shortening" the week. |
Rio de Janeiro
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The Brazilian soap operas that swarm the Portuguese televisions, have created a superlative image of this locality, that results in a certain disillusionment when it arrives.
In fact, Angra dos Reis is a common seaport, which has its charm in the multiple islands scattered across the bay. Thus, a boat trip is mandatory. |
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Boat trip
We did our boat trip, but starting in a different point of the bay - Parati. Is is further from Rio de Janeiro, and that may explain the option of Angra, however, the city of Parati is a marvel that occupies well the free time between trips. |
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We picked the wrong time to visit Buzios - August.
In Brazil its winter, and, though warm enough to allow us to bath, I'm sure that the site didn’t show the life and joy of the hotter days. Anyway, it was good, everything living around and from the beaches, some of them wide, some more secluded, some very beautiful some very common. And, only a couple of hours driving from Rio de Janeiro, it must be a frequent brake in Rio's routine. Well... think positive. We were almost kings of the beach, with space and time for everything. And the local small goodies didn't fail their approach |
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Winter Winter in Buzios is not as hot as in northeast area, but, for an European, it's, all year round, an excellent weather to the beach. I guess that it would be impossible to have all those beaches so free in high season (we tried them all, everywhere feeling at ease). More than that, the prices... In peak season the Pousada da Tartaruga would cost the double... at least.. |
Parati
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Located in the bay of Angra dos Reis, Parati is a wonder.
Walking in its irregular cobbled stones, by the colonial houses with typical architecture, is a fabulous dive in the past. Nature is luxuriant, and beaches are found for all tastes, some difficult to access but justifying the suffering |
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It was winter, and that, probably, softened the contrast between the hot weather in Rio de Janeiro, and the cooler air of the mountains. The only thing we could notice was the dramatic difference in landscape and architecture. After several days "being" somewhere in Portugal, we arrived somewhere in France or Switzerland. The general look, the buildings, the gardens, everything demonstrated that this must have been a preferred place to European immigrants other from Portuguese.
But Portuguese history and culture was still strongly present. And we appreciated this getaway place, representing another look in the mosaic of Brazilian contrasts. |
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Imperial Museum A large colonial building that once was emperor Pedro II's summer residence, is now the Imperial Museum. If you want to discover the story of the independence, and are prepared for the long lines (or it was only our bad luck?), you must visit this museum, one of the best in Brazil. The "animation" in the waiting lines was performed by a sloth, free and confident, in the surrounding trees Website: http://www.museuimperial.gov.br/ My God! This preciosity was burnt? Unbelievable! |
Rio de Janeiro
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My first objective in Brazil, as for everybody else, was Rio de Janeiro.
Well, we weren't lucky in our visit (lost luggage - wasted time), but I don't need to say that Rio de Janeiro is an absolute "Must see". The couple of short days that we had to see the city were profited to the single second, but we left with the idea that we needed to return - in local summer, if possible... |
São Paulo
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It was not planned a visit Campinas, but, coinciding with lunchtime (and a tremendous traffic jam on the highway), a small detour was justified.
We saw the beautiful cathedral and ate a nice lunch. Not much, but quite positive. |
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Cathedral
Built at the end of the 19th century, this elegant cathedral has as its main reason (which we did not naturally perceive during the visit) the materials with which it was built. It is described as the largest building made with pylon taipa, a rudimentary system in which the earth is compressed into wooden shapes, called taipals, in the shape of a large box. |
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Jacarandá
The clay is compacted horizontally and laid in layers of 15 cm, creating a sturdy and durable structure. However, to a unprepared look, the great evidence is the large and rich works in a dark wood, mainly the artistic embossed images of "Via Sacra". Later on, in Salvador, the guide explained that the dark wood in S. Francisco church (very similar) was jacarandá. |
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Agricultural capital of Brazil, Ribeirão is a city of reasonable size, which is far from a major tourist destination.
A wedding took me there, and it gave me two days to build a slight idea of the city, hampered by some rain. |
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Carlos Gomes square
Carlos Gomes was the name of the first great theater built in Ribeirão Preto. In 1930 Pedro II Theater was built, with twice the capacity and better location, which made it lose usefulness, being demolished in 1944. In its place there is today a simple square, which is confused with the nearby XV de Novembro square, and which probably only retains the name of the theater as a tribute to the role it represented in the local culture |
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XV November square
Built in 1890, and since 1985 classified by Condephaat (a long word for the Defense of Historic, Artistic, Archaeological, and Tourist Heritage of the State of São Paulo), this square in the city center has undergone several systematic changes, the last one ended in 1944, after the construction of the light source and the monument to the constitutionalist soldier of the |
1932 revolution. It is a pleasant square where, when we were there, one could walk without the security risks common in many urban squares of Brazil
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Pedro II theater
Built in 1930 when the theater Carlos Gomes proved insufficient. was, for decades, the main cultural reference of Ribeirão Preto, receiving great theatrical and opera companies and political events. In the sixties, adaptation to cinema transformed it, and led to decadence, which culminated in a fire in 1980. |
The reaction of artists, intellectuals, citizens and politicians led to the building being classified in 1982, paving the way for its recovery, and was reopened in 1996, with improvements and improvements that made it the third largest opera house in the country.
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Choperia Pinguim
One of the most famous breweries in Brazil, it was inaugurated in 1936 and has earned the reputation of serving "best beer of Brazil", being frequented by tourists and famous artists. In 1965 it was bought by Albano Celini, and went on to register more than two thousand people, serving in crystal tulips beer with a process of freezing that |
makes it pass for more than 800 meters of serpentina.até the exit of the pump.
It was this already thriving business that, in 1977, was moved to a beautiful building next to theater Pedro II, in the so-called "Paulista Quarter".
We did not dare to sample the "chop" (I'm not really a connoisseur), but we enjoyed the visit.
It was this already thriving business that, in 1977, was moved to a beautiful building next to theater Pedro II, in the so-called "Paulista Quarter".
We did not dare to sample the "chop" (I'm not really a connoisseur), but we enjoyed the visit.
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MARP
Inaugurated in 1992, the Museum of Art of Ribeirão Preto with the purpose of gathering the artistic heritage of the city hall, the museum is an institution subordinate to the Municipal Secretary of Culture. It is installed in the old building of the Recreational Society, inaugurated in 1908, which was also the seat of the Municipal Council of Ribeirão Preto. |
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Cathedral
Built between 1904 and 1920 with the precious help of the coffee barons, to replace the old cathedral, the Metropolitan Cathedral, has as patron Saint Sebastian. ith Gothic lines, the most relevant details are the stained glass windows and the frescoes painted by Benedito Calixto in 1917. |
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Suspended garden
Located on the roof of a building belonging to the Ribeirão shopping mall, and functioning as an outdoor garden on the second floor level, this much vaulted garden closed to us. Copious rain allowed us no more than a glance through the door, wondering how pleasant it must be in good weather, and with the excitement of the frequent musical events. |
São Paulo
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A single day available in a city with the size of São Paulo, is a challenge of the highest - fatigue is guaranteed, but the visit of the most interesting points may not be.
Planning is the key here - setting optimized routes, using transportation efficiently, and ... walking ... a lot. I fulfilled the whole plan, but Fernanda gave up in the middle of the afternoon, when her legs complained of having passed the 15 km. It was interesting, and left me a good image of a city that, I must confess, until having to go there had never seduced me. |
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The only beach in the state of São Paulo that I visited, allowed a great swim even in the middle of winter (August). We were in Parati, and we decided to go see the surroundings. The road was dirt, with some holes, and the low season provided us with its exclusive use |
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Cars in the beach
Well ... exclusive ... almost! In the middle of the bath we were surprised by a beetle quietly strolling on the beach. Reading on the subject I noticed that the fact is not uncommon, and even in the high season it happens frequently. An alert, on a beach that, in water, does not pose any risk. |