Morocco

Morocco

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Entering Morocco in 1982 by land, from Ceuta was a nightmare, almost convincing us to give up. The confusion at the border and the pressure of the touts trying to squeeze the tourists right from their entrance, was awful.
Arriving in Tetouan a gentleman helped us to find a good restaurant, and explained everything we needed to have a good trip. And we had. Fes was a striking experience, the visit of the medina beyond all the possible words.
Meknes, interesting, didn't add much, Rabat showed modernity well combined with tradition, and Casablanca almost European didn't convince me.

Beautiful gardens in Kenitra and Arzila, Alcacer Quibir and Alcacer Ceguer are Portuguese words that, in location made us revive the history knowledge and feel somehow at home. Tangier, at the end brought back the worst of the country: dealing with the supposedly wealthy Europeans. Thirteen years later I entered quietly by air, no problems at all, and spent an excellent week in the wide beach of Agadir. The circuit that followed took us to Marrakesh, Safi, Essaouira, El Jadida, Fes (disappointed with the solution for rebuilding the burnt center of the fabulous medina), Meknes and Rabat again, with nothing special, unless the deterioration of some hotels, and Casablanca, (with the novelty of the new mosque), to take the plane home. Morocco still has the advantages of being the closest of the Muslim countries, with good prices and a welcoming population.

Fes

Most European visitors put Fes in a second row of priorities of their visit, concentrating mainly in Marrakesh or Casablanca. However, for me, Fes is the real gem of Morocco.

The sensation of wandering in the medina really leads to medieval times, like nowhere else in Muslim countries. I've been there twice, and though the second time didn't confirm the emotions (and risks!) of the first one, it still shines for its authenticity and contrasts. Don't doubt. First priority for sure!...

Rabat

Modern city with character, Rabat the capital, deserves to be visited. The main attraction is the complex of Mohamed V tomb near Hassan tower, but the whole city is nice, with a few palaces in evidence.

Agadir

A week on the beach, took us to thee modern city of Agadir, rebuilt after a terrible earthquake. It was a good week, though with frequent fog covering the sea, but not the well secluded pool of the hotel

Casablanca

I've been twice in Casablanca, and the size and modernity of the city, pushed it to a second plan in the strong sensation caught in Morocco. However, something was kept...

Marrakesh

Marrakesh challenges Fes as the most interesting cities of Morocco. More promoted for tourism, and much more touristy, it keeps, however, its authenticity.

Meknes

A walled city that composes the circuit of the imperial cities, Meknes seems to separate history and modernity, and deserves a full day visit

El Jadida - Mazagão

For a Portuguese, a visit to El Jadida is a meeting with our history, so many are the traces of Portuguese presence in that area of the world. For the other visitors... well, it's another Moroccan town, with well preserved signs of Portuguese occupation. And it's interesting, anyway, and that was the basis of its recognition as UNESCO heritage in 2004.

Portuguese cistern
After the fortress, this cistern is the greatest Portuguese edification in El Jadida. And it is an interesting and cool visit.

What will the teachers tell about us, the portuguese, to the many scholar children that we noticed visiting it? Will they mention that the cistern was made in 1514 by the Portuguese, as part of the fort, and later used as cistern, with one thousand square meters, and beautiful arcades?

Will they tell that its beauty attracted the cinema, from Orson Welles to Coppola, and other?

They should, because... it's true.

Portuguese citadel
From 1506 to 1769 this town was portuguese, under the name of Mazagão. In 2004 it was classified as world heritage by UNESCO, that writes about it:

"The Portuguese fortification of Mazagan, now part of the city of El Jadida, 90-km southwest of Casablanca, was built as a fortified colony on the Atlantic coast in the early 16th century. It was taken over by the Moroccans in 1769. The fortification with its bastions and ramparts is an early example of Renaissance military design.

The surviving Portuguese buildings include the cistern and the Church of the Assumption, built in the Manueline style of late Gothic architecture. The Portuguese City of Mazagan - one of the early settlements of the Portuguese explorers in West Africa on the route to India - is an outstanding example of the interchange of influences between European and Moroccan cultures, well reflected in architecture, technology, and town planning."

Asilah

I didn't had a chance to a deep visit of Asilah; we were in a shortage of time, travelling alone, with a wrench open car and didn't risk to stop, only caught a general idea.
Close to Tangier this old city with a wide beach, keeps well visible the signs of Portuguese occupation. With its white houses, Asilah should be a good stop, but... I was in a rush.

Empty beach
It was quite a surprise for us, the long, wide, sandy beach of Asilah, empty in... September.
Out of tourist circuit? Dangerous currents?
That emptiness couldn't happen in Portugal!

Portuguese Heritage
Portuguese heritage is present in most cities in Moroccan coast, but nowhere I had the immediate and strong sensation of... Portuguese work, that I had in Asilah, even before entering the city.

The port, the fortress, the houses, everything seemed to breath... Portugal.

Was it a wrong idea, from a quick passing by?

Essaouira

Marrakesh tops the attention of everybody who decides to visit Morocco, but Essaouira, generally a second choice, surely deserves to be a first one. A small and wonderful town, UNESCO heritage, challenges the violence of ocean and wind, and preserves the traces of all the civilizations present in its history, including... Portuguese. Not to be missed.

The Portuguese Fortress
Built as a few other in the beginning of the 16th century, this fortress, soon lost by the Portuguese, still dominates the city, as íts best monument and a good testimony of our military architectural skills.

Thuya bargains
Wherever you go in Morocco, you may find all kind of handicrafts, generally without any mention of its origin and quality.

Thuya carvings and inlaid works are very appealing, by the delicacy of the work and the soft smell of the wood.

If you go to Essaouira, then forget buying thuya works anywhere else. Here you may watch the carvers doing their pieces, and buy directly from the producers, practicing the favorite sport in Morocco - bargaining.

Door to door, in the narrow streets of the Medina, in the shades of the walls, comparing styles, shapes, prices, and smiles, you feel the real Morocco. And save money!

Tangier

I can't make justice to Tangier!

I only spent there one day, the final one of my first trip to Morocco, and it didn't add much to the strong sensations collected further south.

Things may be very different for those coming directly from Europe, and that's the best way to visit the city.

The beach
Tangier displays one of the largest beaches that I saw in Morocco. The weather in mid September was good, but the beach was empty. Why? Cold water? Dangerous sea? Maybe both, but the emptiness and the abandoned look were not attractive.

Kenitra

My only reason for a stop in Kenitra was the garden.

It is strange such a luxurious garden in the arid environment, and it is nice to spend half an hour without nobody trying to sell you something.

Ksar es Sghir

A small village, once occupied by the Portuguese, lost all its importance since then. At least that's what it seems, since for many years I couldn't find it in VT.

Maybe the sea is dangerous or cold in this northern coast, maybe the lack of infra-structures or the hard access keep people away, but the very nice beach of this small village near Tangier (with bad name in Portuguese history...), seems to deserve another kind of human presence.

Was it a bad day?

Csar el Quibir

Following the coast between Tangier and Rabat you will pass a town that, according to Portuguese will, would never exist - Alcacer Quibir. That was the place ..
So, if you pass there, remember: you never read me, you know nothing, don't look, it's just a common place with a common old canon.

Struggle for water

Olive trees are generalized in Mediterranean area, and Morocco is no exception. Being a resistant tree, it needs not too much water to survive, but... it needs some. That's why we may see in Morocco the trees lined along trenches, trying to retain the few water from raining.

Without the exuberance shown by the vineyards of Porto, if composes an interesting perspective of the struggle against the advance of the desert.

Fes

​Rabat

​Agadir