S José Market
The real town pulses around this market, more than one century old, in old Recife.
All the nearby streets are filled with popular shops, and this is the area to meet the real Brazilian life.
No need to alert that this is one of the areas where the usual precautions make more sense, as someone had the gentleness to alert me, seeing my cheap camera in my hand (well tight...)
An old detention house, closed in 1973, was transformed under Brennand's supervision, in a shopping mall.
The architecture was preserved, and the cells were occupied by dozens or small shops, selling local crafts.
Even where interior walls were removed, to allow a little bigger shops, the look was maintained, only two lifts give a dispensable sign of modernity and comfort, in contrast with the strong grills in the center of the building.
Swim at Boa Viagem
We stayed at Boa Viagem, and we took there most of our swims. The beach is long but not spectacular.
The long reef along the coast protects from surf and sharks, but risks to make the bath very monotonous, specially in low tide, when it becomes almost a pool.
People throws everything to the sand, but the local authorities make a good effort to clean it each day.
The beach closes very early - at 5PM, but at 6AM it's already a pleasant bath.
S. João Castle
A fabulous collection of historical weapons, presented in a castle with a very well elaborated display.
The furniture, pictures and decorative elements are very well integrated giving to the collection a softness and delicacy that smooths the aggressive character of the items, and the density of its richness.
Photo is not allowed inside, and that's my only complaint.
The main building houses a collection of art, focused in the influence of Netherlands in Brazil.
It's a rich and beautiful collection, but for someone who knows what Portugal meant to the history and art of Brazil, it gives the idea that the Portuguese-Dutch conflict subsists.
Some of my friends who had been there before, alerted me that the exhibition gives the idea that Brennand hates the Portuguese; I will not go that far, but agree that the disdain for the Portuguese contribution in Brazil is the weakest point of the exhibition.
A large area of the factory is covered by all kind of shapes coming from Brennand's imagination. It's such a wide display, that you barely notice most of the pieces. And, a strange thing, they don't seem very interested about... selling. I only saw a small shop, with some banal pieces at medium price. Another missing point is a circuit to visit the working factory.
We may see the workers here and there, but a ban at the door tells us not to enter. Well, art is beautiful, but work is not unworthy.
Fishing from the reef
It is not Recife, but it so close and so connected, that everybody visits it from Recife and it would be a "crime" if I skip this information.
Olinda deserves its own page, and you just need to follow the link.